Category: First Floor Windows and Doors

Removing, re-framing, insulating, installing, and weather sealing new, efficient windows and an iron front door.

Front Porch Roof Removal

Porch with roof

Porch with roof

Our front porch has an, uh, attractive aluminum roof. Unfortunately it’s too short to accommodate our new door and transom that we’re planning to install next weekend, so it has to come off. I set aside Sunday morning to lop it off, not really knowing what to expect.

Porch without roof

Porch without roof

As it turns out, it was actually really easy. The roof was attached to the house with some screws and caulk, and attached to the support columns with some lag screws. It was also pretty light weight, so once I unscrewed everything and cut through the caulk with a reciprocating saw it came down without much problem. The whole process was less than an hour.

I switched the saw to a metal blade and cut off the columns so they are level with the railing. It looks a bit strange, but it’s going to look a lot stranger when we put an iron door on the front of our crummy-looking house. This is one of the first outwardly-visible signs that anything is being done to our house, assuming people didn’t notice the dumpsters. I removed the bits of caulk stuck to the siding after I took this picture. I can’t say it looks much better, but it’s something.

Derek watching

Derek watching

Derek was really excited about the whole process and yelled at me from the upstairs window the whole time. Also, yes, that appears to be a maple tree growing out of the siding. I should probably pull that out.

First Window Installation

With the prep work for the radiant heating complete, we can focus on getting the windows and doors installed. I came up with the plan a while ago after reading up and watching some Building Science materials. The first was the back window in what will be the office. It’s the only double hung window, but the reason I decided to do this one first is that it opens onto the enclosed porch. That meant it was easier to install and it was covered in the event we ran into snags.

Original window removed

Original window removed

Sarah’s dad Mike, Rob, and Aaron helped me re-frame the window opening, moving it about six inches over to allow for the future stair landing when we redo the back porch. We mended and sistered a stud that became one of the king studs and put in a proper header with ½” insulation separating the 2x6s. This resulted in a somewhat ridiculous 8″ of solid framing in the wall. Good thing we’re putting on exterior insulation! Then we installed new sheathing in the closed up portions and cut back the siding around the opening, then caulked all of the seams.

The next step was to build the plywood box that extends out from the exterior wall so that the window was properly supported on the outside after we add two inches of foam. We added the Tyvek house wrap to the sheathing and then the glued on two 1″ layers of polyiso rigid insulation, ensuring that the seams didn’t align and taping everything with Tyvek tape. Normally these would be attached by screwing furring on, but the siding is a long ways off and we’re planning to use metal furring strips that we don’t have yet.

Re-framed opening

Re-framed opening

We added clapboard at the bottom to slope to the outside and installed a WeatherMate drain pan  on top of it. Next we used flashing tape along the sides and put the window in place with shims at the bottom. We secured it with straps on the outside face that were screwed through the foam and into the studs. I’ll need to finish the interior with some Great Stuff and backer rod. I’d like to thank Mike, Rob, and Aaron for their help and their patience with my non-traditional window installation!

Completed window

Completed window

This window was kind of a prototype, so I have a few lessons learned. First, the project took all day for the single window, and we had three people working on it. I need to streamline the process for the remaining windows. Some of the time was because we hadn’t done it before, but I’m also hopeful that if I pre-cut the material (studs, foam, plywood), I can install them faster.

Window sill detail (Credit: Building Science)

Window sill detail (Credit: Building Science)

Next, I’m a bit confused by a couple of details of the Building Science plans. First, their instructions leave the entire window sill area (highlighted above) effectively un-insulated, though it is air sealed and drained well. I think in future windows I’ll use spaced shims rather than beveled siding so I can fill the space under the pan flashing with expanding foam.

Window head detail (Credit: Building Science)

Window head detail (Credit: Building Science)

Second, considering how thorough the plan is when it comes to water management, the plywood extension box seems strangely left out, particularly at the top (highlighted above). The house wrap is underneath the foam specifically to handle water that might get inside, but the water is then directed onto the exposed plywood and trapped there because the foam is taped to on the outside of the plywood. We wrapped the corners of the housewrap to the plywood with Tyvek tape, but I think I’ll wrap the housewrap over the plywood at the top for the rest of the windows to create a better drainage plane. I may even try to add a slope to the sides so the water can continue to drain down the wall, but we’ll see how ambitious I get.

There are six windows to go: three along the side and three in the bay in the front. We also have the front door and the back sliding door, though the back sliding door will have to wait, since the porch stairs are in the way. We’re planning to install the door next weekend and hopefully I can get all the windows in the following week. Wish us luck!

Door Delivery

We got word that our Iron front door was finally on its way. It was manufactured in China, so getting here was a bit of a process. The delivery company confirmed my fears though: they only deliver during the day on weekdays, and it weighs 930 lbs! Worst of all there was very little notice as to what day it would be. They called on Friday and it was delivered on Tuesday. Dean offered to take the afternoon off work and Sarah put out the call on Facebook for help, and Laurie, Jade, and Cody came to rescue, along with both of Sarah’s parents. On top of the door delivery, Sarah had a huge final paper due Tuesday that she was scrambling to finish.

Curbside delivery

Curbside delivery

The delivery window was noon to two, and at five to noon the truck showed up. It wouldn’t fit on a pallet jack, so we manhandled it onto the lift gate and got it down to the street. Once we had it slid to the side of the street the truck was gone and we were left to deal with how to get it into the house.

Door inside

Door inside

The door itself was wrapped separately from the frame with sidelights, so first we got that into the house. It was heavy, but not terrifically so, and it went relatively smoothly. We figured this process wasn’t going to be so bad after all. I called Dean and told him not to worry about leaving work. Then I went to move the frame… it weighs everything.

I called Dean to ask if he could come after all. While we waited for him to get there we ate lunch and we debated the best method to move it. I broke out the furniture-mover robots (the plastic things that slide easily) and Mike employed some leverage with 2x4s to get the frame up on the curb. We decided to move it to the stairs still on the steel pallet, since the door has brackets that stick out.

Dean arrived and with much heaving, shoving, pulling, and shouting, the door frame slowly worked its way to the porch, up the stairs, and into the house. Once again, friends and family came through!

Frame inside

Frame inside

We thanked everyone profusely, and Dean and Mike even stayed to work on grinding down the wall in the basement for the second half of the mechanical room panel. Also, Sarah got her paper turned in on time.

Mike and Dean grinding

Mike and Dean grinding

We can’t wait to get it installed, but there are a few things we need to do before then. At this point, just turning the frame upright seems like a serious challenge, let alone putting it into the wall. We’ll get there eventually. Our goal is to get the door and windows installed before the weather gets too cold.

Window Installation Planning

A couple months ago we ordered our new windows for the first floor. Since then I’ve been mulling over how we’ll install them. One of the challenges of our house remodel is the order we chose to do it. Rather than do it the “right” way, we complicated things in two ways. First, we’re living in the house while we’re rehabbing, which complicates things like our plumbing and HVAC. Second, we’re doing the inside first, the outside second, and the basement last, which complicates things like our mechanical room in the basement and the windows.

Window removed

Existing window framing

When our house was built, they put up the stud walls, put on the sheathing, then came back and cut holes in the wall and put windows into them. This is a strange way to go about things. It means that there is no structural support that carries the load around the windows. In order to put in new windows we have to re-build the opening with proper modern framing. That means a header, king studs, jack studs, the whole works.

Window framing (new framing in white)

Window framing (new framing in white)

In addition, we’re planning to put two inches of rigid foam insulation on the outside of the house, which means we’re building out plywood window boxes to align with that future edge. In order to install the window properly and make it weather-tight, we need to flash it properly by adding a sill pan and taping it to the foam (that isn’t there yet) then installing the window and taping that to the foam. In short, there needs to be foam.

This means in addition to removing and re-framing the window opening, we need to remove six inches to a foot of siding around the windows, add house wrap and two inches of foam, then install the sill pan and window and flash it all properly. In a few years when we re-side the outside, we’ll tape the house wrap and foam around the windows to the rest as we go.

Rigid insulation around window opening

Rigid insulation and house wrap around window opening (existing siding not shown)

We’ll be picking up the windows this Saturday, along with some of the materials we need. We’ll probably be sitting on them for a little bit while we work on the mechanical room, but we do want to get them in while the weather is still nice.

Window Shopping

 

Front door

Front door

The first floor has what look like original windows. They’re single pane, wood framed, and while they were probably nice when they were new they leak heat like a sieve and they’re falling apart. The front door is a newer steel door, but it’s cheap, scratched and dented, it’s been kicked in at least once from the looks of it, and in typical fashion it was installed wrong. Plus it’s an 80″ door that was retrofitted into an 84″ opening. The original transom over it is visible from the inside but sided over on the outside. It’s all in need of an upgrade.

The process of shopping for new windows and doors started, as usual, with Google. I educated myself on panes, glazing, U-factors, R-values, SHGC, visual transmittance, aluminum, vinyl, fiberglass, wood cladding, air leakage, and more. I did research on companies, materials, methods, and pricing. We’re trying to make our house energy efficient, not just to save money but to conserve resources. That said, money inevitably comes into play with a lot of these calculations.

After learning about different window types, styles, and their respective properties, we started considering what we wanted. When it comes to resale, “new windows” is about as far as most prospective buyers go, so the prevailing wisdom is not to spend a ton on them. Resale isn’t our top priority, though. We want to build a house that will last, which means using quality materials. The second floor already has “new” windows, and they’re about as cheap as it gets. Most are single-hung vinyl from three different brands. They leak air and in some cases water, they were installed wrong, and they conduct heat badly. As a result we’re planning on replacing all of them when we redo the second floor, which seems like a waste, but even if they weren’t crappy windows most of them are damaged or the wrong size.

I settled on fiberglass frames because they’re stronger than vinyl and will hold up better. I didn’t want wood cladding because even good windows can condense if the indoor humidity gets too high, and when that happens wood-clad windows don’t hold up well. I also didn’t want aluminum frames because even with thermal breaks they generally don’t insulate as well. I discovered, not surprisingly, that high-end fiberglass windows with great efficiency are very expensive, to the point that they don’t make a lot of sense when you consider the money you save on energy versus what you spend on the windows.

If our house had a big window curtain wall, the window efficiency would make a lot more difference. As it is, we don’t have a ton of square footage of windows. We closed up the windows on the North wall, leaving about 185 square feet of window and doors on the first floor, or about 14% of the wall area. I narrowed my search to three reasonably priced fiberglass window manufacturers and started getting quotes. To minimize air loss I stuck with casements and awning-over-picture windows, though in the back we have a sliding glass door with transom and one double-hung because an open casement would block the stairs off the porch.

I initially focused on triple-pane windows. The third pane increases the glazing and reduces air convection within the window. They are notably more efficient than double pane windows and the first company I talked to said they only add about 10% to the cost. However, after I got a quote back from one of the other companies, the salesperson noted it would be considerably cheaper with double pane. I asked for a double pane quote and, at least from them, the price came down by 25%. That was enough to give me pause, so I went back and re-did my heat loss calculations. When I factored in the cost of energy (albeit at today’s prices), it would take over 50 years to recoup the price difference. While I expect energy prices to go up and the windows to last that long, it was still a tough sell.

The deciding factor was the front door. No one seemed to make an entry door that I liked, mostly since I’m really picky. Last year Sarah and I decided to add a consistent style to certain elements of the house, a theme if you will, of curved wrought iron, to the railings on the stairs and the front porch and to the glass on the front door, as well as other accents throughout the house. Not all of the door manufacturers had wrought iron styles that we liked. I’d also seen operable sidelites, where the windows adjacent to the door are screened and open to let in air, so you don’t have to have a screen door. I don’t like screen doors because they make it difficult to go through the door if you’re carrying things and they ruin the look of a front door, so I was immediately sold. Unfortunately only a few manufacturers sell them. Finally, most of the steel and fiberglass doors have a wood frame and the door itself is built with wood. It’s exposed to the elements and often looks bad inside of five years without regular repainting. Only a few had composite frames and steel door construction.

Iron Door

Iron Door

Then I stumbled across iron doors. Iron doors are relatively new on the consumer market. They combine a heavy gauge steel door and frame with wrought iron scrollwork. Best of all they have operable sidelites, they’re filled with polyurethane insulation and you can get Low-E glass so they’re fairly energy efficient, plus they look gorgeous. On top of that they’re extremely secure. The drawbacks were two-fold: very few have a thermal break and all of them are expensive.

The thermal break issue is that the door and frame are made with solid steel tubing, so heat is conducted through the metal despite the insulation inside. This can lead to condensation if there’s enough humidity and temperature difference, not to mention heat loss. I found a couple of companies offering thermal breaks in their iron doors, but they were prohibitively expensive (think new sub-compact car), which only exasperated the second problem. After scouring the Internet for a reasonably priced solution, I finally gave up on the thermal break.

The price difference for the iron door over a regular fiberglass or steel door was about the same as the price difference between the double and triple pane windows. A door we really love, that makes a strong first impression to visitors, plus adds resale value to the house versus an up to fifty-year payback in energy efficiency from triple pane windows was a fairly easy choice. We decided on double pane fiberglass windows from Inline Fiberglass and an iron door from Donatello Doors. It will take six to twelve weeks to get them made and delivered and then we’ll still need time to install them, so we’re ordering now.