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Getting Closer

I’ve been working on the stair railings, and I’ll have a post about them hopefully soon, but there’s been a bunch of other things going on we should get caught up on. For starters, we got our countertops! Sarah and I went shopping for stone countertops for the kitchen as well as the three bathroom vanities. We learned that while there are lots of installers, they all buy from distributors and the distributors won’t sell directly to you. We did some online shopping and then visited two different local distributors and figured out what we liked and didn’t. Unfortunately, the distributors only give you a pricing scale with no way to extrapolate how much anything is. We were able to estimate roughly from that, but it wasn’t until we went to our installer to pick out some remnants for the bathrooms that we finally got a quote. It was –somewhat predictably– more than we’d hoped (or budgeted). The granite we wanted for the kitchen wasn’t in stock and wouldn’t be for a while, so we went with our second choice. We bit the bullet and they came out and finalized the measurements and got it all installed about a week and a half later.

We started hollering at the GC to get the plumber, electrician, and trim guys out. The doors for the trim were a couple weeks out, but that had come and gone. Then they delivered the trim but it was still another week before they finally started work on that. After weeks of trying to get the electrician out, he showed up for a few hours and hooked up some lights, but apparently doesn’t want to put in the fixtures, outlets, and switches until everything else is done, which is really frustrating.

The plumbers, on the other hand, were able to get the sinks, showers, and toilet all working, which is exciting. We now have more than one flushing toilet! this morning they picked up the port-a-john that had been beautifying our back yard these last months. They still need to wrap up the freestanding tub in the master bath and the kitchen appliances, but plumbing is otherwise basically done.

Next up the carpet guy showed up. We’re carpeting the attic as well as the stairs that go up to it. Unfortunately, he said we couldn’t wrap the carpeting over the hallway and stair edges like I expected and Sarah decided she didn’t think that would look nice. After some back and forth, we decided to make an edge of hardwood that will match the first and second floors, so she’s been working on that. The carpeting is supposed to be installed next week, along with the glass for the master bathroom shower.

The HVAC installers got one of the two AC condensers up and running, the unit that runs the second floor and attic. They put all of the vent covers in and we realized the drywallers were a bit sloppy around a couple of them and we need to add a bit of mud, which I picked up today. They needed a part that they ordered to finish the other unit, but it’s been a week or two so I need to follow up and hopefully they can wrap things up.

The trim guys started putting in doors, door and window casings, and base molding. There’s definitely some things we’re going to touch up after they leave, but we’ve had them fix the more egregious problems, like installing the bi-fold closet doors upside down, or getting two of the doors mixed up, installing a door in the attic bedroom that swings the wrong direction, and then saying they need to exchange the remaining door for one that swings the other way. I was able to solve that dilemma when I went to turn off the light and noticed the switch was behind the door. Today they fixed those things and then started installing the tile backsplash in the kitchen. Then a whole bunch more boards showed up for them to continue on trim, since they’d chewed through the initial batch already with a lot of the house still to go.

Once Sarah finishes up the attic stair and hallway edging, I can varnish that along with the railings and newels and then install the iron balusters. We’re closing in on being able to move upstairs, and as exciting as that is, I really wish I could get all the contractors out of the house so we can take a deep breath. A few more weeks and I think we should actually be there.

Stove Gas Line

This was a relatively small project. I’d left it on the back burner for a while, but since I was waiting for some (more!) deliveries to move forward with the stair railing project, I decided to knock this one out. Back when we had temporarily (several years) had the washer and dryer on the first floor, we ran a gas line up to it, using the segment that was future-intended for the stove. This meant I had an existing hole in the floor to run through up into the wet wall. The nice thing about the wet wall is that there’s room inside to work.

I bought a recessed box for the gas valve a while back, partially since it looks cleaner, but mostly since it would allow me to cut a big hole in the wall to handle the pipe connections. When I cut an exploratory hole to dial in the position, I discovered there was a stud a bit closer than I’d hoped, and the pipe came up in the middle of the wet wall, so it was about six inches back. I also realized that the electrician had run a conduit just above the sill plate horizontally, which meant I couldn’t have the box configured vertically as I expected.

New branch with sediment trap.

I made the hole the correct size horizontally, and with it enlarged, started reaching in with pre-doped fittings and putting things together. I worked out that the vertical pipe could first elbow toward the wall, then turn again into the box. II hadn’t bought all of the required fittings, of course, so I did have to run back to the store to pick up more.

Fun times with a pipe wrench and my arms inside the wall.

With parts in hand, I got everything put together and tightened down. I ran everything in 3/4″ since it’s a big stove and I’d rather have more than I need than not enough. I put in the appropriate sediment trap in the mechanical room below the branch, since there wasn’t room for it higher up. The last step was to fit the box onto the pipe, add the valve itself, and then secure the box to the wall.

Recessed valve installed

I had the benefit of being able to get into the wet wall on the other side of the wall from the radiant access panel, which will also give me a way to test everything with the gas sniffer before I turn the branch up. We have shut off valves on each branch, so we can easily shut off just that section if there are any leaks, but I was pretty liberal with the pipe thread sealant, so I’m fairly confident this time around.

Kitchen Cabinets

After my sister Jessica helped us assemble the upper cabinets and Dan helped us get them hung, we realized we needed to adjust the height to match the full height cabinets. Dean came over and after helping get the full height pantry and refrigerator cabinets assembled and in place, we got the other upper cabinets down and rehung. Dan returned and he and Sarah started assembling the base cabinets.

Now that we’re up to this point, let me take a step back and fill you in on how we wound up with these cabinets. Our GC told us he had a great “Amish” cabinet maker that would make and install beautiful custom cabinets, which sounded great right up until we got a quote. I’ve mentioned in previous posts about the struggles we went through trying to control costs on our loan, and this was one of the items. We started looking at “ready to assemble” cabinets (RTA). Again our GC had a recommendation, but just looking at their website I wasn’t thrilled with the finished product. I wanted custom cabinets, I just didn’t want to pay for them! The other thing I got stuck on was inset doors and drawers. I don’t know why, but I really like the look of it and most of the RTA cabinets don’t offer them.

However, I found a company, Cabinet Joint that not only sells inset door and drawer RTA cabinets, but they’re fully custom, real wood and plywood construction, whatever finish, species, and door style you want. They’re not cheap either, and we have a big kitchen with a lot of cabinets, but it was thousands cheaper than the first company, about 30% less.

Sarah and I went over colors and finishes and settled on a warm cherry stain for the kitchen, a dark chocolate color for the powder room and linen, “ashen gray” for the main bathroom vanity, and “shale” for the master bath vanity. We placed our order back in July, but there was a twelve week lead time until they arrived in October. Since we still didn’t have our floors installed, we couldn’t do much with them until that was wrapped up.

With the floors done, we switched to all cabinets, all the time, since trim work is supposed to start as soon as our interior doors are in. There are a lot of cabinets, and each one needs to be assembled, glued, stapled, door hinges and stops installed, drawer hardware screwed in, then it gets attached to the wall, doors are attached, drawer boxes are put in and the drawer fronts carefully attached. Finally the toe kicks and knobs and pulls complete the job.

There are two big pantry cabinets in the corner of the kitchen, then the main run starts with the refrigerator cabinet, a smaller full height pantry, and small upper and base by the stove. After the stove, there’s a corner cabinet with upper, two wider cabinets with uppers, the sink base, a gap for the dishwasher, a trash pull out, and a double base cabinet. Finally, there’s a buffet with three more base cabinets. As I said, it’s a big kitchen. If you weren’t counting, that’s about nineteen cabinets, plus the three bathroom vanities and a linen cabinet.

The bank loan pays for things as they are completed as part of draws, but the cabinets needed to be paid for up front. As a result, I paid for the entire cabinet order out of pocket, and then got about half reimbursed by the bank. We’ll get the remaining balance reimbursed once when everything is done, so even though we don’t have to have all of the drawer fronts, toe kicks, and hardware on for trim to start, we want these complete so we can get that money back. We’ve bought a lot of stuff for the house over the last several months, and some of it has been floated on credit cards pending that check.

Not everything went completely according to plan in this process. The videos say you can rest your stapler at an angle and it will be perfectly aligned, but in our case this led to staples poking into the back of the cabinet. The linen cabinet didn’t quite fit into the alcove, so we had to remove the drywall on one side, plus it’s a bit short and so we’ll have to cover the opening at the top with trim.

I carefully cut the plumbing holes and installed the main bathroom vanity and then realized it wasn’t centered under the light, so I had to move it three inches over, which meant cutting a bigger hole in the back. Fortunately all of my other plumbing holes worked out pretty well. The master bath vanity doesn’t exactly match the spacing of the lights, so we’ll probably offset the sinks to align with the light instead of the vanity doors. It’s a 72″ double vanity with drawers in the middle and I’d originally planned for it to be 24″+24″+24″ and instead it’s more like 30″+12″+30″. Oh well.

We’re very grateful for all the help we got in this process, Jessica drove up all the way from Lafayette for the day, Dean and Dan both came over multiple times, and Dean lent us some really useful tools. I learned quite a bit in this process, made some handy jigs for installing hardware, and think I’m well enough versed that we’ll likely build our own closet organizers.

Hardwood Flooring

Back when we started this project, we decided we wanted hardwood floors. The house had hardwood floors originally, but they were too far gone to save. For one, they didn’t go through the whole house, as areas like the kitchen had been torn up and replaced with plywood at some point. Next, we were changing the floorplan, so we couldn’t leave them in place. Perhaps most importantly, they were buried under layers of laminate floors, full of nails, and had been refinished so many times there wasn’t much left. We pulled the original floors up as part of demo and had a fun time trying to give them away.

We had the new floors done professionally and thus didn’t have to do much, but there were a few items. First, the GC dropped off a stack of unfinished red oak tongue and groove planks. We met with a few different contractors until the GC settled on the third and they got to work almost immediately. The started with the second floor and laid everything in a few days. Like most contractors, they gave us a timeline that was only loosed correlated with reality, but by this point we’re fairly used to it.

Our biggest worry throughout the install was that they were going to put a staple through one of the radiant heat pex lines. They said they’d installed over them before, but this contractor also said they preferred not to use only glue since the boards sometimes pulled apart if you didn’t put staples at the end. Despite the knots in our stomachs, they managed to complete the whole thing with no puddles or leaks.

Of course, that’s not to say it was perfect. The first issue was on the landing, where they installed a bullnose edge around the outside perimeter. Rather than a mitered return, they just had the unfinished edge of the bullnose sticking out the side of the landing. Since I was already working on the stairs at the time, I noticed this and used some of the remaining bullnose left out to redo the piece myself. Could I have asked them to redo it? Probably, but our experiences with contractors to date have made us a bit jaded about how certain things will be taken care of, and we prefer to just do some things ourselves and save on hassle.

Next they laid the first floor, which mostly looked good except where they put bullnose around the opening for the future basement stairs. Where the bullnose met the base of the column, they just skipped over the column, I assume because it will be mostly covered by trim. But it won’t entirely be covered in trim, and you could certainly see it if you were coming up the stairs, so here again I just redid the section myself, cutting out a small piece of the existing bullnose, cutting back a miter where the new piece would fit the corner, and then making a piece to fit around the column and fit into the corner. This didn’t turn out completely perfectly, but it was close enough that some woodfill made it blend in. I glued it and clamped it until everything was set.

They finished laying the floors on Monday, but then didn’t return. We contacted the GC, who said they were going to finish the floors at the end, when everything else was done. That’s not unusual, just not what we’d expected, and it presented some challenges around things like appliances being delivered. So we said ok and started making plans to get the cabinets assembled and installed.

Then the GC contacted us to let us know they actually would be coming back to finish the floors starting on Monday and they’d finish up Wednesday. We kind of roll with the punches and adapt to the situation as it comes, so we shifted to finishing the stairs so that they could finish the treads when they finished the floors.

Monday they sanded and put down more wood fill, Monday evening Sarah and I went up and added some woodfill ourselves to some spots they missed, and Tuesday through today (Thursday) they put down three coats of varnish and buffed. I think they’re done and aren’t coming back, but I’m not certain, nor do I know how long I’m supposed to stay off the floors. They’re mostly dry at this point, but generally I believe we’re supposed to stay off at least 24 hours. I managed to get all of the above photos without walking on the floors, mostly because the attic and stairs to the attic will all be carpeted. We’ll see if they come back tomorrow and, assuming they don’t, we’ll start on base kitchen cabinets this weekend. Our interior doors are on order and supposedly about two weeks out, so we have that much time to finish the cabinets before trim starts.

Stair Cladding

I built the first floor stairs quite a while ago, back in August of 2014, actually. They’re a combination of LVL and OSB, and the intention has always been to skin or clad them in wood. We debated a bit whether to do all stained or white risers and skirts with stained steps, and we finally settled on the latter, since the underside of the stairs is drywalled, and the stairs up to the attic are also drywalled since they’ll have carpeting, plus they don’t stock red oak plywood locally. With the hardwood flooring going in, now’s a great time to get this project into gear.

Framed Stairs (also hardwood flooring being installed)

I ordered pre-made stair treads that are routed to fit our stairs. The stairs are open on the right side all the way up, so this means we have an overhang of the tread bullnose on that side as well as the front. The retro treads are unfinished red oak, just like the floors, and were made (fairly) locally in Goshen, Indiana. After some back and forth with the company to confirm the specifications, they made them and shipped them over along with the newel posts. With stairs up to the attic and hallways overlooking the stairs, there’s actually quite a few newel posts.

I picked up a cheap Wen track saw, which is awesome. I’ve wanted a track saw for a while, since they’re great for cutting large panel goods in straight lines, much easier and more accurate than trying to manhandle a 4×8 sheet through the table saw along a fence. I went with quarter inch veneer plywood for the risers, because they’re just going to be painted, so there isn’t any need for them to be particularly thick. The OSB behind it is already 3/4″.

After vacuuming the steps and removing a kazillion staples from when the spray foam installers put plastic over everything (and then continuing to find stray staples throughout this process), I started from the top, gluing and stapling the plywood to the risers. All of the riser pieces I cut slightly shorter than the height of the risers themselves because the tread will overlap at the top and cover the edge at the bottom. That simplified the sizing, since I have at least a half inch of “fudge”. I did a test fit with the tread and realized the top step needed the depth padded, so I had to scrap my first attempt. I added some hardwood flooring scraps and the second try worked better. When I got to the side skirt, which covers the side of the stringer, I cut a strip the correct length, but then mistakenly cut too much off the end to make the angle where it meets the second floor. Oh well, I was going to have to pick up another sheet of plywood anyway.

I went to Home Depot after it stopped raining and picked up some additional supplies, including another sheet of quarter inch veneer plywood, which I wratchet-strapped to the roof of our hatchback. Not 500 feet from the store, a gust of wind caught the leading edge and ripped about three feet of it off, pinwheeling over the car and landing in front of the car behind me. I quickly pulled over and shoved the ripped off piece into the back seat. Fortunately, the tear happened in a spot that I could still use it. With the additional sheet back at the house, if in pieces, progress continued more smoothly. I was able to cut the remaining pieces for the risers, and then the skirting for the larger run.

One of the things that I neglected to mention is why I’m doing this project in the first place. After all, we hired out the rest of the house, right? People have shown up to do siding, the roof, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, spray foam, drywall, tiling, build the front and back porch, tile the bathrooms, lay the hardwood flooring, so why am I working on stuff at all? The answer is, not surprisingly, money. Our GC quoted us $22,000 to clad the stairs and install railings up to the attic. Material costs for all the treads, newel posts, balusters, rails, plywood, etc. is several thousand all told, but it’s not anywhere near that, so I asked what the cost for labor would be if we bought all the materials ourselves, and he said $11,000. My problem is that I know roughly how to do these things and how much time and effort is involved. In my opinion, this wasn’t anywhere near eleven grand in labor, so I told the GC I’d do it myself. So here I am, installing the stair cladding and eventually newel posts, railings, and balusters.

Now, in fairness, I did need a lot of tools to do this work. Just for this project, I used a shop vac with dust extractor, scraper, needle nose vice grips, mini pry bar, track saw, allen wrench, jig saw, miter saw, router, channel locks, impact driver (with three different bits), a pneumatic stapler and accompanying compressor, putty knife, measuring tape, angle finder, combination square, pencil, gluebot, shop light, utility razor, hammer, straight edge, and two different chisels, and that’s before I got to sanding and painting. I could have done it without the track saw, but since I was already saving money and I knew I’d get more use out of it down the road, it was easy enough to justify buying. All of the other tools we already had, which is part of why we sign up for these projects.

With the riser cladding attached, I first rough cut to the steps with the jigsaw, then followed up with a flush bit on the router. Since it’s only quarter inch plywood, this went fairly quickly, with just a couple spots the router couldn’t get into and I had to use a razor blade. I added outside corner trim to the bottom edge to transition to the drywall underneath, which involved some fancy cuts that actually turned out pretty well. Once everything was glued and stapled, I went over every staple and joint with Drydex, a kind of spackle. I’ve read that for painted wood, Drydex is a better choice than wood fill. I started out using a putty knife, but quickly switched to my fingers like an overgrown pre-schooler playing with Play-Doh.

I came back a bit later and sanded everything smooth, reapplying a couple of spots and hitting a few more proud staples with a hammer. The thicker joints were still pink so I decided to leave it overnight. The next morning I sanded and reapplied a couple of the corners again. The one downside to the Drydex is that it’s a little too easy to sand, so I wound up taking too much off and then having to add it back on again. Eventually I got it smooth enough to put on the first coat of paint, of course finding new spots that would require touch ups. After this cycle repeated for a bit, I finally reached the point where it either looked good enough or I didn’t know how to make it look better, and I rolled a couple coats of finish paint on.

The last step in the process was to install the treads. I was concerned about using a brad nailer, since I don’t want any squeaks, so I decided just to use PL Premium glue. There are a total of fifteen treads, so I bought a couple tubes, which turned out to be woefully inadequate. I started from the top and worked my way down, cleaning each rough tread and then squeezing on an even pattern of glue before pressing the finish tread into place. I ran out of glue, ran to the store and bought two more tubes, and then got the rest of the finish treads in place.

Then I had to clean up all my tools since the hardwood floor guys were coming back the next day, which unfortunately meant I needed to take a lot of stuff upstairs. I made the mistake of thinking this wouldn’t really affect the glue set up, and by the time I was done several of the treads were loose. This meant I had to go to the store again and buy more glue, so I could reattach them. Then, because sometimes this is how things go, there were more loose treads than I realized, I used up both tubes, had to run to the store again and buy still more glue, to finally finish things up. The next day when Sarah and I tried them out, we discovered one of the treads squeaks.

The hardwood floor guys are back and they’re going to finish the treads along with the floor. When they’re done, I’ll most likely pry that tread back up, scrape down the glue, and re-glue it. The good news is I think I still have enough glue left.