Tag: house wrap

House Re-Wrap

I just can’t get enough of being at the top of really tall ladders, wishing I had more arms! When you put up house wrap, tape it! Tape it all! We’ve had some really windy days recently, and in a couple of places on the South wall, the house wrap was not up to the job (it’s almost like it’s not supposed to be left exposed all winter). The wind ripped the house wrap clean off the staples and it would flap, loudly, in the breeze, a constant reminder of my failure to adhere it properly the first time.

House wrap blowing away

In my defense, the South wall was put up in sections, so there are more seams than there should be, plus I put it up myself, and house wrap is, by most measures, a two (or four) person job, particularly when you’re twenty feet up in the air. We had a lot of help when we did the North side, but bringing in a bunch of people to repair one twenty-foot long strip seemed like overkill, even if it was up at the top of the wall.

After it tore off the second time, and then a second section came off after that, I realized if I didn’t get it on properly there wasn’t any point in doing it. However, that still left the question of how. While we have two ladders (one is on loan from Mike S), I didn’t want Sarah up on the other ladder, I wanted her holding mine so it didn’t fall over. After the Internet failed to produce an idea (there was one, but it doesn’t work when you’re way up in the air), I came up with how to do it.

House wrap dispenser

I drilled a hole in a block of wood and put one end of a ratchet strap through it, tying a knot to keep it from pulling back through. I ran the rest of the ratchet strap through the 9′ roll of house wrap, making a convenient dispenser that even had a hook at the top. For the first section, there are some conveniently large holes in the top of the wall that let me attach the hanging roll to a ratchet strap inside the attic.

Making progress

With the roll hanging from the top of the wall, I could pull it out and staple (and tape!) it at the start of the section. Then I went into the attic and carefully moved the roll from one side of the section to the other by reaching out through the gap in the wall and passing it around each rafter. Since the one end of the wrap was stapled, it simply unwound as I moved it. Then I went back to the ladder and stapled it all down, taping the bottom seam as well.

I’d originally skipped the bottom tape because I wanted a path for any water that got behind the house wrap to be able to drain out, but the wind catches it like a sail, and each staple that gives make a bigger sail area, increasing the force to pull it free.

House wrap curtain rod

The next section was the real trick. About twelve feet long to the corner, with no holes at the top of the wall, I had nothing to hook the roll on. I came up with a solution that I’m quite proud of. I found a tiny gap in the front corner of the house by the roofline where I could squeeze a ratchet strap out and attach it inside. Once hooked to a second ratchet strap, it was long enough to stretch across the section. I brought the loose end up the ladder and connected it to the ratchet, and made the whole thing taut, right under the roof line.

From there I hung the roll from the taut strap, and slid it along like a curtain rod, unrolling the house wrap as I went, moving the ladder every couple of feet. I cut the house wrap at the correct length to wrap around the front of the house by about a foot, lowered the rest of the roll down, and finally stapled and taped the edges.

House wrap restored (don’t mind the dangling strap)

After all of this, though, I’ve reconsidered something our builder suggested, which is to use Blueskin instead of the house wrap. After all of the time, effort, and money we’d spent to put the house wrap up, I wasn’t really interested when he brought it up several months ago, but now, with the house wrap looking worn and faded from being exposed too long, and an unrelated bit of work that needs to be done on the windows, it’s probably a good idea. It will do a better job of keeping out water and air sealing and still allows the building to dry to the exterior. I hate doing things twice, but even if I’d put up Blueskin in the first place, it would be well past its exposure time in several places.

Second Floor Window Removal

The North side of our house is very close to the neighbors house. Like us, they have a sidewalk down the South side of their house, but unlike us they have a bay wall on the side of their house that’s cantilevered over the basement on both the first and second floors, similar to our second-floor-only bump-out. That means in places their house is less than two feet away from ours. Given that, when we drew up our plans, I eliminated all of the windows on the North side. While they bring in some indirect sunlight, the view wasn’t anything to get excited about and removing them simplified things like the stair landings and potential furniture arrangements. Plus, windows have lower insulation values than a wall assembly, so we’ll lose less heat.

We removed the windows on the first floor a few years ago. Ha! looking back at that post I was still hoping we could partially spray foam. As it turns out, they use a fire protective coating on the spray foam that additional spray foam won’t bond to. As a result, you put it all in at one time or you don’t put in any. But I digress. Removing windows on the second floor when there isn’t even room to put a ladder up outside added to the complexity of the project. Instead, I worked out a way to close them up entirely from the inside. Fortunately, the first window was the small pantry window that had been buried in the wall. It actually has vinyl siding over it on the outside, so if I wasn’t planning on doing it from the inside before, I certainly was now.

The pantry window (buried in the wall) covered by siding

Because our house is balloon framed, the windows don’t have jack and king studs with a header. Instead, they simply cut a hole in the framed exterior wall, added a partial stud on either side of the opening, and called it a day. To close these in, we just sistered to the studs on the sides of the hole, with replacement framing for the vertical studs that had been cut. Sarah’s dad, Mike, helped me pick up the five sheets of ¾” plywood for sheathing.

Doing this from the inside meant that after I removed the existing window, I needed to completely frame the replacement studs and sheathing, along with house wrap stapled to the exterior. Then I fit the assembled framing into the hole from the inside. The downside of this approach was getting the house wrap tucked to the outside so it would cover the gap between the old sheathing and the new and create a proper drainage plane. However, the house wrap will likely all get redone when we replace the siding. For the time being, it’s mostly to protect the sheathing in the absence of siding.

I ran into an extra challenge with the window over the stairs, and had to build scaffolding from boards, plywood scraps, and a ladder. This wasn’t the safest work environment, particularly when lifting the heavy pre-assembled framing into the hole and then finding it didn’t completely fit on the first try. In order to reach the top so I could screw things in and trim one of the studs, I didn’t really want to put a stepladder on top of the scaffolding, so instead I climbed up into the attic and reached down from above. I managed to complete everything without accident.

The last window I did was above the landing, near the top of the stairs. It required a smaller makeshift scaffold than the one over the stairs, but I saved it for last because I noticed the sheathing above and to one side of the window was rotted, as well as the stud adjacent to the window. I cut out the rotted sections and put in the new stud and sheathing above the window opening first, since I could slide it in behind the remaining siding. With that done, I then put in the pre-assembled framing for the window opening from the inside, just as I had for the others. Fortunately, the rest of the sheathing and studs in the house are in pretty good shape, despite innumerable leaks in the siding, soffits, roof, gutters, windows, and trim. My next job will be removing the second floor back door, which currently opens to about a twenty-foot drop.