Tag: exterior insulation

Window Week

I took off work all last week to instead work on the house. After we installed the door on Sunday, I spent Monday doing some follow-up tasks like replacing the handleset with one that fit and matched the door, plus reinstalling the porch railings, mailbox, and doing some weather sealing. With that finished I got to work on the windows.

We installed the first window a few weeks back and I figured out the details and made a couple of tweaks to the plan. Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday I installed a window a day. Each one took roughly twelve hours start to finish. The reason it took so long was all of the steps in the process. I’m pleased to say I didn’t need to make a single trip to the hardware store to do these windows and the whole thing went smoothly, it was just very time consuming.

Here’s the rundown of the process: first I removed the existing window, established the exact window height with the laser level, reframed the opening using existing lumber and modern window framing methods (king post, jack post, header, and cripples), removed all three layers of exterior siding to expose at least 6″ of sheathing around the window opening, installed new sheathing to account for the higher sill, and built jamb extensions. With everything framed, I stapled on housewrap with taped seams, installed two layers of 1″ polyiso foam insulation with staggered and taped seams, flashed the window opening with a sloped Weathermate plastic sill pan and 4″ tape. At that point Sarah helped me fit the window into the opening and screw the facing clips through the foam and into the framing. With everything secure, the last step was to apply more of the 4″ tape to the sides and top, sealing everything up. I’ll come back through later and fill the gaps on the inside with Great Stuff and foam backer rod.

Bay with siding removed

Bay with siding removed

Friday I was running low on some materials and I went to the store, then started removing the siding around the front bay, which has three windows. I discovered that the decorative sheathing had a frame that meant I had to do it all at once rather than just the 6″ around the window. Saturday we wound up completely removing the framing on the front section of the bay and rebuilding it with new sheathing. Unfortunately after putting everything together, the window didn’t fit into the opening. Between the existing studs and the taper of the lumber, we’d managed to build a parallelogram. All the dimensions were right, but it wasn’t square. We wound up unscrewing one side of the jamb extension and cutting down the length of the jack post stud at an angle to make it straight enough to fit the window. We didn’t get the window screwed in until 11:15 at night.

We still have two more bay windows to go, but this week I’m back at work, so I’ll need to figure out when I can get them in. I’ll be sure to check for plumb studs as I go to avoid a repeat of the last window. Thanks to Will for helping us on Saturday!

New bay window

New bay window

First Window Installation

With the prep work for the radiant heating complete, we can focus on getting the windows and doors installed. I came up with the plan a while ago after reading up and watching some Building Science materials. The first was the back window in what will be the office. It’s the only double hung window, but the reason I decided to do this one first is that it opens onto the enclosed porch. That meant it was easier to install and it was covered in the event we ran into snags.

Original window removed

Original window removed

Sarah’s dad Mike, Rob, and Aaron helped me re-frame the window opening, moving it about six inches over to allow for the future stair landing when we redo the back porch. We mended and sistered a stud that became one of the king studs and put in a proper header with ½” insulation separating the 2x6s. This resulted in a somewhat ridiculous 8″ of solid framing in the wall. Good thing we’re putting on exterior insulation! Then we installed new sheathing in the closed up portions and cut back the siding around the opening, then caulked all of the seams.

The next step was to build the plywood box that extends out from the exterior wall so that the window was properly supported on the outside after we add two inches of foam. We added the Tyvek house wrap to the sheathing and then the glued on two 1″ layers of polyiso rigid insulation, ensuring that the seams didn’t align and taping everything with Tyvek tape. Normally these would be attached by screwing furring on, but the siding is a long ways off and we’re planning to use metal furring strips that we don’t have yet.

Re-framed opening

Re-framed opening

We added clapboard at the bottom to slope to the outside and installed a WeatherMate drain pan  on top of it. Next we used flashing tape along the sides and put the window in place with shims at the bottom. We secured it with straps on the outside face that were screwed through the foam and into the studs. I’ll need to finish the interior with some Great Stuff and backer rod. I’d like to thank Mike, Rob, and Aaron for their help and their patience with my non-traditional window installation!

Completed window

Completed window

This window was kind of a prototype, so I have a few lessons learned. First, the project took all day for the single window, and we had three people working on it. I need to streamline the process for the remaining windows. Some of the time was because we hadn’t done it before, but I’m also hopeful that if I pre-cut the material (studs, foam, plywood), I can install them faster.

Window sill detail (Credit: Building Science)

Window sill detail (Credit: Building Science)

Next, I’m a bit confused by a couple of details of the Building Science plans. First, their instructions leave the entire window sill area (highlighted above) effectively un-insulated, though it is air sealed and drained well. I think in future windows I’ll use spaced shims rather than beveled siding so I can fill the space under the pan flashing with expanding foam.

Window head detail (Credit: Building Science)

Window head detail (Credit: Building Science)

Second, considering how thorough the plan is when it comes to water management, the plywood extension box seems strangely left out, particularly at the top (highlighted above). The house wrap is underneath the foam specifically to handle water that might get inside, but the water is then directed onto the exposed plywood and trapped there because the foam is taped to on the outside of the plywood. We wrapped the corners of the housewrap to the plywood with Tyvek tape, but I think I’ll wrap the housewrap over the plywood at the top for the rest of the windows to create a better drainage plane. I may even try to add a slope to the sides so the water can continue to drain down the wall, but we’ll see how ambitious I get.

There are six windows to go: three along the side and three in the bay in the front. We also have the front door and the back sliding door, though the back sliding door will have to wait, since the porch stairs are in the way. We’re planning to install the door next weekend and hopefully I can get all the windows in the following week. Wish us luck!