Year: 2018

Roof Penetrations

I went back and forth and hemmed and hawed when it came to how to vent the bathrooms. I was concerned that on the second floor, if I went out the side it would be right underneath the gutters, and picturing steamy air in the middle of winter was just not a good mental picture. At the same time, going straight up is yet another roof penetration, places that can leak if not today then eventually. I was committed to the roof to the point of ordering some roof caps, only to briefly plan to run PVC pipe and then finally going back to out the side.

It came down to the slope of the pipe. When water condenses in the exhaust pipe, I want it to drain out not back into the bathroom. Since I plan to run the venting in PVC, which will never rust or leak and doesn’t require nearly as much insulation to prevent condensing on the wrong side, angling it down to the outside is a nice, short run. I made my peace with the vent under the gutter by buying the downward-sloping metal vents rather than the flat louvered plastic things.

I also spent a lot of time figuring out the exhaust fan for the kitchen. This time, the roof was pretty much the only option. Because we plan to have a, ahem, large range, we need a big exhaust fan (plus some kind of makeup air). The required 6″ ducting could easily go straight out the side, but it would spew greasy smoke directly across from the neighbor’s window, about three feet away. Dean suggested I go out the side in the other direction, so we took a gander at the other neighbor, and sure enough they have a window there too. So, up it is. I debated the style of roof exhaust too, concerning myself with snow accumulation, grease on my shingles, you name it, but ultimately I decided to just put the damn thing I’d already ordered in the roof and commit.

That still left some big projects. We vented the water heater out the side of the house, and every winter it frosts over because it’s right next to the exhaust for the boiler, and every summer Sarah complains that it smells between the houses when it runs, most likely because it’s condensing, so the exhaust isn’t hot enough to float away right away. The solution: run it up and out the roof. The challenge was there wasn’t a particularly direct way to do that. Exceeding a handful of elbows meant I needed to step up from 2″ to 3″ PVC for both the intake and exhaust lines, which had to run parallel the whole way until the combine in a concentric vent just before going out the roof.

Dean saved the day, throwing ideas at me on how to route it until we finally coalesced into a plan. We spent most of the day in the basement, cutting holes in the joists (center third vertically, outer third horizontally) to run the pipes along the outside wall to get to the wet wall, so they could then run up to the attic before jogging over about six feet to get enough clearance from the other vents. I got the flashing boot onto the pipe, managing to knock the cap of the concentric vent off in the process. It bounced off the neighbor’s roof before it fell to the ground and cracked. I glued the thing back together with PVC cement, so it now has purple primer crack lines, but it’s installed.

Finally, the largest holes of all were the two solar tubes. We’d trimmed down our original plans to one solar tube in the master bedroom closet and one big solar tube that goes through the attic and second floor to bring light all the way to the kitchen and living room on the first floor. We cut the holes from the inside, then Sarah tied a rope around the flashing base so I could hoist them up and put them in position. It wasn’t the cleanest of jobs, but since the roof is about to be replaced, they’re mostly there so the roofer know where they go. They can attach them more permanently. Sorry I don’t have completed pictures of the solar tubes, I was more concerned about getting down safely.

Back of House Progress

House wrap is a good start, but there’s a few more things to finish on the back of the house. First, we needed an actual door, since I was using a sheet of rigid foam to block the opening we had cut. As with the other doors and windows, we needed a 2″ jam extension to position the door to the outside of the rigid foam that will clad the exterior over the house wrap. I made this out of 2x4s, with a 1/2″ of foam on the back side, punctuated by squares of 1/2″ plywood where I was putting screws through it. At the bottom, rather than just a 2×4, I built the ledger that the landing will be attached to. This is the same basic design, though, with a 2x board over plywood and foam, only using much bigger screws to attach into the wall studs.

After applying all sorts of tape to flash the thing to the house wrap and allow water to travel around the wood, I ran into trouble when I went to position the door. I swear I measure these things, but somehow the opening was slightly too short. Fortunately, I was able to remedy this by swapping the original rough-sawn 2×4 at the top of the opening with a new 2×4, since it’s only 1-1/2″ thick. Now I was set, right? Of course not. I made the same classic mistake I’ve made before: trusting the house. One side of the door opening is against an existing stud, and like a fool I assumed it was approximately vertical. Since that turned out to be laughably wrong, I wound up having to again swap an old stud for a new one, then add a piece of plywood at the bottom of one side to get the opening a bit closer to an actual rectangle rather than a parallelogram. Ultimately, I did get the door installed and taped.

As with the front of the house, I needed to build the gable soffit, or rake. I had help in the form of Aaron, Dylan, Rob, and Mike. While Dylan trimmed back the original boards, we assembled the new rake in sections, including the angled bottom end that aligns with the side of the house. Despite the heights, wobbly platform, and ladder, we managed to successfully attach it without anyone falling.

Rake installed, housewrap taped

The last step in the process was to tape all the vertical seams in the house wrap, which I did while lowering the platform back to ground level. An additional trip up the ladder similarly finished the right edge of the back, and the whole thing is looking pretty much ready for siding, with the exception of the ledgers, which I have yet to finish.

Before we put siding on the house, we’re going to replace the roof. The existing roof is terrifically old, maybe 10-15 years, but it’s the cheapest shingle on the market, it’s not adhered very well, there are now multiple —and in some cases poor— patch jobs, plus the new front porch and the bay peak, it’s due. That means we have a few more projects to wrap up to get ready for that. Hopefully the weather will cooperate!

Completing House Wrap

Portions of the house have had house wrap for a while, far longer than it’s meant to be exposed. Because I started out buying the small three-foot rolls, before graduating to the larger 9′ rolls, and because we’ve done it a bit at a time using different types and brands, our house wrap job has a definite patchwork quilt vibe going on. There are some lessons learned, to be sure. First, I wish I’d known how much better Typar was when I started. I never would have bought all that Tyvek. Second, taping is critical, especially vertical seams, to keep the house wrap from leaking and ripping off in the wind. Third, house wrap is always a pain in the ass, but it’s far worse when you’re doing it by yourself.

Fortunately, last Saturday I had some help in the form of Rob, Dylan, Aaron, and Kelsey. Rob helped me get the first course of house wrap on the narrow North side of the house. I was up on the ladder while he held the roll up on a long wooden pole. For the second and third courses, I was further up the ladder while Dylan was holding the roll on a second ladder. Every time we needed to move the ladders, I’d hold the roll while he moved, then he’d hold it while I moved. It took most of the day, but we got the whole side done. I didn’t get any in-progress shots of this process, so you’ll have to use your imagination. As with the South wall, we left the bottom edge un-stapled to allow for the drip edge install. That proved an annoyance as we could hear it flapping in the wind all night.

That left only two sections still to wrap: the back attic gable wall and the corner of the South wall behind the electrical service. I took off a week of work and Monday Aaron, Dylan, and Kelsey came back to assist. Before we could put house wrap on the back gable, I needed to remove the rest of the gable trim and the rake, as well as frame the back attic door opening. Due to fire code requirements, we need a second form of egress from the attic, meaning a back door and stairs on the currently nonexistent back deck.

The first step was getting the pump jack into position. Unfortunately, it really couldn’t get high enough to reach everything. I started removing the friezes, but I realized it would be easier to reach everything if I cut the door opening. so there was some cutting, some prying, and some cursing, but eventually I got the trim removed. I’d positioned a piece of OSB in the attic where the floor will eventually be, so I knew where the bottom of the door would go, from there, I just measured the rough opening and started cutting. I managed to cut out the center stud from the wall and re-purpose it to the side of the door to get everything exactly where it needed to be, along with a 2×4 header. With the door framed and the trim removed, we were basically done for the day.

The week I took off proved to be rainy, which made working outside a challenge. I got the drip edge installed around the bottom edge of the wall all the way around the house. This directs water away from the foundation and will protect the rigid foam from damage or bugs. I caulked it down the entire length and attached it with nails before taping down the edge of the housewrap. I’ve become paranoid about allowing a path for water to drain out, even at the expense of air sealing. There are too many ways for water to get behind the house wrap for me to tape any bottom edges.

I worked my way up the South corner behind the electrical, which meant removing and reattaching one bracket at a time and cutting out slots and holes in the wrap to position it behind the electrical service. I used a lot of tape to get everything solid. Finally, today I got the top corner in and started on the back gable. I cut each side separately because of the awkwardness and the angles. The best part was disconnecting and reconnecting the pump jack brackets from the wall while I was standing on the platform, one at a time, so I could get the house wrap behind them.

With the sides and the section under the door done, I just had the top of the peak above the door opening left. I couldn’t reach all the way to the peak from the doorway and the pump jack was even lower, so I ended up putting a ladder inside, leaning against the inside of the wall with it’s feet against a rafter so it couldn’t move, then hanging on that out of the house to get the last few staples in. I’m happy to report my ongoing efforts to get things done on the house while not dying have continued to be successful.

House wrap done

The house wrap is up, but I have some taping and flashing left, and I need to add the jamb extension for the attic door, plus the new rake. I also need to install ledgers for the back deck. We’ve been reaching out to contractors about siding, and we’re hoping that’s not too far around the corner. Finding someone willing to tackle the rigid foam and furring strips is non-trivial. I can put up the rigid foam myself if I have to, but it would be a hell of a lot faster to hire it out. We bought most of the foam we need on sale and we have a nine-foot tall pile of it in the first floor now. Sadly, we’re no strangers to giant piles of on-sale insulation littering up the house. Hopefully we make use of this one sooner than the other one.

Soil Stack Replacement

Since we bought the house, we’ve had a leak in the roof where the cast iron soil stack sticks out. This is due to a complete lack of any kind of flashing on the roof. The hole itself is at least two inches larger in diameter than the pipe itself and you can see the sky from inside the attic. To be honest, I should have fixed this a long time ago. Rain water runs down the pitch of the roof, into the hole, then runs down the pipe all the way into the basement. Along the way it makes a mess of the wet wall (it’s not supposed to be literally wet). In a hard rain we’d get a puddle in the basement mechanical room, because of course the floor doesn’t slope to the drain (grumble). At one point I tried to patch it with Great Stuff, but other than making a big mess that didn’t accomplish much.

Part of what had stopped me from fixing this sooner was my intention to run the new soil stack out of PVC, including all of the correctly-positioned fittings for all of the connections (drains for toilets, sinks, tubs, shower, and various venting). Mapping all of that before we have the second floor re-framed is tricky. Regardless, I spent a fair amount of time working that out and planning things, but ran into some complications. Among these were the current location of the washer and dryer, the need to run a drain line for the future location of the washer as well as the kitchen sink.

When the day came to tackle this project, Rob and Aaron showed up and lent a hand. There is a 2″ vent pipe and the 4″ soil stack running up in parallel until the 2″ vent connects near the top. The 2″ vent pipe came off pretty easily, but the joints in the cast iron proved to be really solid, and I wound up cutting the pipe into sections with an angle grinder. The larger section of cast iron is about ten feet long and with all the fittings probably weighs a couple hundred pounds. Removing all of the cast iron took longer than I’d anticipated, plus we started later than I’d intended. This all conspired to it being late afternoon with a giant hole in the roof and the toilet venting into the house. Considering the complications with running the line that I was also still ruminating about, we just ran a straight vent and soil stack up, using the same rubber Fernco adapters to attach the PVC so we could make modifications later.

PVC soil stack assembled without fittings

With PVC sticking out of the roof, the next step was  to get onto the roof and install the flashing. There are some rotting toe boards on the roof left by the previous owner, and one of them was conveniently located where I could use it to not die while installing the flashing. However, there isn’t a good way to get to the toe board. I wound up attaching a rope to a nail on the far pitch of the roof and then using that to slowly lower myself down to the toe board (have I mentioned how scary-steep my roof is?), while carrying the flashing and a hammer.

I got the flashing installed, probably badly, and neglected to take a photo of the finished product before carefully climbing back up the rope to the relative safety of the peak of the roof. From there it’s a simple (though not easy) matter of inching to the edge, lowering myself down the slope at the edge, using the old satellite dish as a foot hold, then lowering myself over the edge onto the bracket for the pump jack, which is screwed in near the top of the wall. The good news is I didn’t fall off the roof and the puddle in the basement is gone. Thanks to Rob and Aaron for their help with this project!

Siding Removal

By far the most arduous, time consuming, and eventually expensive portion of our summer was spent removing siding. While the front of the house was already done, and the back of the house only had the gable left, the sides were mostly three full layers of siding. The South side of the house was a bit better because we had removed both the siding around the windows as well as the bump-out, though there was the added challenge of the electrical service pole. By contrast, the North side is against the property line, with the only access being the narrow sidewalk along our neighbors’ house, which in some parts is only about 20″ wide.

The North side of the house

The outer layer of siding is vinyl, and it’s by far the easiest to remove. The second layer, on the other hand, is cement siding with asbestos fibers. As asbestos goes, it’s not the worst kind, since it’s “non-friable”, meaning you can’t crush it into powder with your fingers, but “the best kind of asbestos” is still not the ideal situation to be in. The bottom layer of siding is the original cedar clapboard. Doing this removal from a ladder or even two ladders and a platform was a non starter. Because the area is only about three feet wide, the angle is so steep that the platforms wouldn’t sit flat. Scaffolding is also too wide, especially factoring in the gutters and other protrusions from the neighbor’s house. That left a pump jack, where you put up two poles anchored to the house and the ground with a platform that jacks up between them. I found an inexpensive pump jack on Craigslist, and got to work on the South side.

The original plan was to see how long it took to remove a section of siding and use that as a guide for doing the North side after a conversation with our neighbors. Unfortunately, just getting the pump jack assembled and in place took hours, and every time I went to work on the house it was full sun and over 90°. The first time I got it set up and jacked the thing up to the top of the wall, I didn’t set up a ladder. I discovered that the jack didn’t slide down the way it was supposed to. You’re supposed to be able to step on a release and turn a little handle, but it just spun around. On top of that, even though we were following proper procedure and wetting and bagging the asbestos siding, we didn’t want the kids at home when I was doing the work, which meant I was at home by myself, on the top of this platform with no way down. It took me about an hour to work out a way to use my pry bar to get the thing to slip down about one gut-wrenching foot at a time. One or the other handles would intermittently work to more gracefully lower the platform. After that, I used the ladder, though I also managed to smack my forehead into an aluminum rung of the ladder and cut myself badly enough I still have a scar a few months later.

Only working when the kids weren’t home limited the pace of progress, as did the normal summer events that tend to fill up weekends. I managed to get about a third of the South wall done in that first whole weekend while Sarah and the kids were at her sisters’, but it was slow going. After removing the three layers of siding from a section, the immediate next step was to add house wrap to keep the rain out. Between this project and the windows, I’ve developed a keen hatred of installing house wrap. It always winds up being windy, making it almost impossible to wrestle with one person, and it seems no matter what I do, it eventually rips and blows off the wall, usually when it’s about to rain. For most houses, where it’s only exposed for a short time before siding is installed, that may not be a big problem, but we’ve encountered it repeatedly.

We rented another dumpster (I’ve actually lost count at this point) to get rid of not just the siding but a burgeoning pile of debris in the second floor from the windows, the old roof of the bay, the hip roofs from the front and back, plus more that had accumulated over the months. For some unexplained reason they didn’t want to come pick up the dumpster, and we wound up having it for nearly a month, but that worked to our benefit because of how long it was taking to remove the siding.

Back of house

Sarah helped me with the next section, and I tackled the next major section in another weekend. By this point, we had realized that we needed to hire out the rest of it. To tackle the North side of the house, even if I took a week off of work to do it, was going to be incredibly difficult, and we didn’t feel right asking our neighbors to give up their sidewalk for a protracted period. We also had a whole bunch of bagged asbestos siding that we didn’t have a good way to dispose.

After getting some quotes, we brought in some pros to finish up the job. They originally thought they could get it done in a day, but there was a misunderstanding about removing the bottom layer of siding and they wound up taking about two and a half days to get the remainder done, including the section behind the electrical service pole, the gable on the back, and the whole North side of the house. They left the trim for some reason, so I’ve been removing that so I can get house wrap on. I’m hoping to get that wrapped up (ha!) this coming weekend.