Tag: mechanical room

Mechanical Room Layout

Original plan

Original plan

The location, dimensions, and layout of our basement mechanical room have shifted as we developed our plans and then those plans ran up against reality. The original plan our architect developed put the mechanical room in the back North corner of the basement, but this resulted in a twisting hallway and a lot of wasted space.

Early revision

Early revision

I started playing around with the design, moving the mechanical room over to the South corner, but while this plan worked and gave us a lot of room for storage, and kept the front area of the basement big, it didn’t work when it came time to install the boiler and water heater. Since we didn’t have the interior walls built when we needed to start installing equipment, everything needed to be on an exterior wall. The boiler and all the radiant equipment didn’t fit on one side of the window, which meant we needed to change the plan to make everything fit.

Later revision

Later revision

With everything shifted toward the front, the back room gets a lot bigger. The issue with this plan was that despite the back room being big, there was almost no wall space for storage shelves. The back corner has an electrical panel, and the top (North) wall is effectively the hallway because the door is along the wall. There’d be room for maybe two shelves. So I shifted the bathroom and door back from the top wall so that there would be more room.

Nearly final

Nearly final

This plan took some space from the mechanical room, but everything else seemed to work great. It could fit three shelves along the North wall, moved the utility sink from the laundry so we’d have a temporary kitchen when we moved to the basement, and I was sure this would be the final plan. Once again, reality intervened. When I installed the panel in the mechanical room I aligned the front edge with a floor joist so that the wall between the front room and bathroom/mechanical room could be along a floor joist. As a result it moved toward the front by almost a foot. Bath tubs are sold in convenient five-foot or six-foot sizes. Since the back wall aligned with the steel column, it meant that the nice simple rectangle for the bathroom needed to be adjusted to accommodate a five foot bath tub in an almost six foot wide room.

Final revision

Final revision

With this adjustment made I had to play a mental game of Tetris with the various items in the mechanical room, namely the ejector pit, sump pit, and hot water heater. The challenge is the existing sewer pipe under the ground prevents the sump or ejector from going in certain spots, the trench for the weeping system imposes additional challenges, the water heater already has piping, venting, and gas lines to its current location, and at the same time I need to allow sufficient clearance to get in and out of the room, including not just servicing but replacing equipment in the hopefully very distant future. I think I’ve accounted for everything and worked out the final locations so I can start digging some holes. The plumbers are supposed to start this week, so whatever plan is in place is the last plan we’ll have.

Mechanical Room Panel

We finished the first half of the mechanical room panel last weekend, which includes the water filter and heater and a space the future boiler will occupy. The second half of the panel will hold the manifold, pump, and expansion tank for the radiant heating system. I couldn’t build it until the old water heaters were out which, predictably, required the new water heater.

Before

Before

Tuesday morning, Sarah’s dad Mike and I got the two old water heaters disconnected and moved over to the scrap pile. Then we marked out the location of the studs to attach to the wall. After the door delivery, he and Dean ground the brick wall smooth with angle grinders while I cut the lumber to size. I finished grinding down the wall Wednesday and put up the framing. I put sill gasket behind each stud to prevent moisture from seeping into the wood and attached them with Tapcon screws. I found that in several cases the screws wouldn’t go all the way in, despite using an air compressor and vacuum to remove dust and re-drilling the hole several times.

After

After

I discovered the best solution was to drill the holes as I had been with the rotary hammer, then come back and re-drill the holes with the drill bit that came with the screws. Even though they were both 5/32″, something about the included bit worked better. With everything in place, I came back down after dinner and filled the cavities with spray foam. I just need to cut back any places the foam expanded past the front of the framing and it will be ready for Lester to install the manifold panel.

Spray foamed panel

Spray foamed panel

The only remaining item on my mechanical room preparations (aside from cleaning up the huge mess I’ve made) is to run a short length of EMT conduit from the junction box over to the panel and fish a 15 amp circuit for the radiant system.

Mechanical Room Plumbing

For the last couple of months, with the exception of renting a trailer and picking up the windows when they came in, we’ve been working on the mechanical room in the basement. The first step was running new gas line, then we ordered the water heater and whole-house water filter, prepped and framed the first wall panel section, spray foamed it, and covered it with plywood. We also ran a new electrical conduit from the circuit panel to the mechanical room and installed a light and gfci outlets.

Panel framing and spray foam

Panel framing and spray foam

Once we had the panel and parts ready, the next step was to start assembly. The water filter consists of a pre-filter, main filter, and post filter, that are all connected in series, with a bypass around the whole thing. There is a valve before, after, and in the bypass to allow for filter changes without leaving the water shutoff. The challenge was fitting this long chain onto the half of the panel, since the other half is reserved for the boiler. The plumber initially had a setup where half the filter was sticking off one side, but I was really hoping to put a wall there so that I had room for a little workshop in the basement. I also wasn’t thrilled with how it was all mounted. I decided to redo it, even though it was already soldered together.

Initial filter install

Initial filter install

This past Saturday, with help from my brother-in-law, Rob, and my father-in-law, Mike, we got the water filter re-configured with the valves vertical rather than inline with the filter. We also got the venting installed for the water heater and the water heater connected to the filter. Sunday, with Dean’s help, we connected the panel to the existing water supply and plumbing, replacing the incoming water line, the spigot and starting the new runs up to the second floor. After checking all the solder joints for leaks and adding more nylon tape the pre- and post-filter housings, we turned on the water heater. I took a shower in hot, clean water and we drank several glasses of the best tasting tap water I’ve ever had.

Revised filter plumbing

Revised filter plumbing

Like all projects, it wasn’t without its share of frustrations. Just for the plumbing install (not counting the panel build) there were nine trips to the hardware store. In the future I’m going to stock up on ¾” 45° elbows since they seemed to be in perpetual short supply. Drilling through the wall to install the vents was a challenge. I had expected the plumber to bring his hole saw, but when he forgot it I wound up buying bits and even a new drill, since my rotary hammer is SDS-plus and the local stores don’t sell hole bits or a chuck for it.

New water heater

New water heater

As is often the case, I’m grateful to the friends and family that made the project possible. A big thanks to Mike, Rob, and Dean for all their help! With the new water heater installed I can finally get the old one out of the way and put in the second panel section. That will make way for the boiler installation so we can have heat this winter.