Tag: plumbing

Mechanical Room Plumbing

For the last couple of months, with the exception of renting a trailer and picking up the windows when they came in, we’ve been working on the mechanical room in the basement. The first step was running new gas line, then we ordered the water heater and whole-house water filter, prepped and framed the first wall panel section, spray foamed it, and covered it with plywood. We also ran a new electrical conduit from the circuit panel to the mechanical room and installed a light and gfci outlets.

Panel framing and spray foam

Panel framing and spray foam

Once we had the panel and parts ready, the next step was to start assembly. The water filter consists of a pre-filter, main filter, and post filter, that are all connected in series, with a bypass around the whole thing. There is a valve before, after, and in the bypass to allow for filter changes without leaving the water shutoff. The challenge was fitting this long chain onto the half of the panel, since the other half is reserved for the boiler. The plumber initially had a setup where half the filter was sticking off one side, but I was really hoping to put a wall there so that I had room for a little workshop in the basement. I also wasn’t thrilled with how it was all mounted. I decided to redo it, even though it was already soldered together.

Initial filter install

Initial filter install

This past Saturday, with help from my brother-in-law, Rob, and my father-in-law, Mike, we got the water filter re-configured with the valves vertical rather than inline with the filter. We also got the venting installed for the water heater and the water heater connected to the filter. Sunday, with Dean’s help, we connected the panel to the existing water supply and plumbing, replacing the incoming water line, the spigot and starting the new runs up to the second floor. After checking all the solder joints for leaks and adding more nylon tape the pre- and post-filter housings, we turned on the water heater. I took a shower in hot, clean water and we drank several glasses of the best tasting tap water I’ve ever had.

Revised filter plumbing

Revised filter plumbing

Like all projects, it wasn’t without its share of frustrations. Just for the plumbing install (not counting the panel build) there were nine trips to the hardware store. In the future I’m going to stock up on ¾” 45° elbows since they seemed to be in perpetual short supply. Drilling through the wall to install the vents was a challenge. I had expected the plumber to bring his hole saw, but when he forgot it I wound up buying bits and even a new drill, since my rotary hammer is SDS-plus and the local stores don’t sell hole bits or a chuck for it.

New water heater

New water heater

As is often the case, I’m grateful to the friends and family that made the project possible. A big thanks to Mike, Rob, and Dean for all their help! With the new water heater installed I can finally get the old one out of the way and put in the second panel section. That will make way for the boiler installation so we can have heat this winter.

Choosing a Water Heater

For a while now I’ve been planning to get a Triangle Tube Smart Series indirect water heater. Indirect water heaters use the boiler to heat the water rather than have built-in heating elements. Lester, our radiant heating guy, agreed that it was a good design but cautioned that there can be issues with getting them approved by inspectors because they don’t have a double walled heat exchanger. I looked into the code and determined that we shouldn’t have an issue with that, but for a number of other reasons I wound up looking at other water heaters anyway.

The first is simplification. Our project is really complicated, with a set of interlocking pieces with dependencies and requirements across the gamut. Our existing water heater is in the way of our new boiler panel installation, so if we use an indirect water heater, we need to first move our existing water heater (disconnect everything, move it, and run water and gas plumbing to the new location along with exhaust flue to the chimney). Then we’d get the new boiler installed along with the indirect water heater, and re-plumb the water lines to the new location. We wouldn’t be able to remove the chimney until the new system was fully up and running. Conversely, if we just buy a standalone water heater, we can install it soup-to-nuts and be done with it. The boiler install loses any other dependencies, the chimney isn’t waiting on anything else, and we don’t have a single point of failure (the boiler) down the road.

There’s a few other factors to consider. For one thing, when the home is tightly insulated our heating load will be quite low. Having an indirect water heater actually means we’d need to buy a bigger boiler. The boilers modulate, meaning they can run at different levels depending on load (25%-100%), but if the boiler needs to be bigger just to run the water heater, that 25% is still a much bigger value. Our plumber, Mariusz, recommended the AO Smith Vertex 100, and it’s easy to see why. It’s 96% efficient, it’s reliable, we’ll never run out of hot water, and it’s direct vent, so it uses outside air for combustion, which is important when we’re doing so much air sealing.

I’ve already decided against tankless. They draw too much gas (up to 199,000 btu) and they don’t work well in the Midwest where our cold water can be 50° F or less. I’ve decided against tankless hybrids since they seem unreliable. I’ve ruled out most of the other condensing storage models because they either cost more, produce less, are less reliable or some combination thereof. There are cheaper models that direct vent but in addition to not having as much capacity (first hour delivery not tank size), they’re more than 40% less efficient, easily costing more over their lifetime.

Vertex 100

Vertex 100

In the end, I did a cost comparison. The Smart Indirect is the cheapest until you factor in the cost of a bigger boiler. A lower efficiency direct vent water heater is cheap until you factor in the operating cost. The Vertex 100 is expensive, but its high efficiency will pay for itself. I also looked at a more expensive direct vent heater that had a stainless steel tank so it would last longer, but the payback wasn’t there. I’ve reached out to Mariusz to get the ball rolling. In the mean time our whole-house water filter showed up and I need to frame out the mechanical room wall.

New Gas Plumbing

We’re taking a step back from framing the first floor and shifting to mechanicals. Specifically, getting the new boiler installed in the basement. I met with Lester, our radiant heating guy, on Wednesday and we walked through the plan. I got the requirements figured out for the boiler install and we’ll be working on getting those items ready over the next month and a half.

The first step in the process is the gas line. We need to provide gas service to the new boiler, and given the state of the existing plumbing, it was time to start over. We modified the gas plumbing about a year ago to eliminate the runs along the beam in preparation for the steel beam. With that done, there were still two runs from the meter at the front of the basement to the back. One went to the existing steam boiler and then to the water heater and stove on the second floor while the other went to the gas dryer. It went through byzantine twists, multiple unions, and a frustrating lack of valves. It was time to replace it all.

Putting in all new plumbing meant I needed a plan. I came up with a simple main trunk and branch design that would service all future gas appliances. To determine the sizes needed I added up the distance from the meter to the furthest branch and the total input btu of all appliances. Then I used gas pipe sizing charts to arrive at 1¼” for the main line, reducing to 1″, ¾”, and ½” at various junctions. With the plan in place I worked through the basement, measuring distances and coming up with every pipe length and fitting I’d need.

If I was to do this again I’d recommend going to a plumbing supply store. They sell the more obscure fittings, like reducing tees in all sizes, inline reducing tees, 1¼” street 90s, and on-site pipe cutting. Because I went to a big-box store instead, I had to re-plan in the store, winding up with a lot more fittings, and every junction is  potential leak. In any case, I got home and immediately realized I’d forgotten to buy the straps to attach the pipe to the ceiling. D’oh! I went back, bought the straps, and then laid out everything on the floor and discovered I had gotten a reducing tee by mistake (it was in the wrong bin).

Yesterday morning I ran back to the store and bought the correct tee. I got started removing all of the existing pipe, except for the run up to the stove on the second floor. Then I connected the existing water heater to the branch that went up to the stove, making a single segment that could be removed at a later date.

New gas line

New gas line

Dean and Sarah’s dad, Mike, arrived and we set to work putting in the new plumbing. The new trunk runs along the beam, just as the original line did. We got about halfway down (at our second tee) and realized that my measurements hadn’t properly accounted for the size of the couples and tees. We needed a shorter piece of pipe to line up properly and our pipe threader only went up to 1″ pipe. Mike ran back to the hardware store to get it and Dean and I worked on putting the remaining branches together.

Tie-in to existing stove and water heater

Tie-in to existing stove and water heater

Mike got back with the missing pieces and we got the remaining branches in. At the end of the trunk we ran a line to the dryer using existing pipes and fittings. Someday that branch will be removed and in its place we’ll put in a line to the back deck for a natural gas grill.

Removed pipe and fittings

Removed pipe and fittings

After requisite leak and pressure testing, we only needed to tighten a couple of unions. Everything was looking good. We re-lit the pilot on the water heater and headed upstairs for some burgers cooked on the gas stove. A big thanks to Dean and Mike for their help!

More Unexpected Plumbing

Every time working on the house involves swinging a sledgehammer and generally banging on things, rust inside our terrible, terrible galvanized steel pipes flakes off into the water and clogs up the aerator on the faucets. When this happens the water faucets slow to a trickle. This means that nearly every time I have to swing a sledgehammer I have to then bring the pipe wrench up to the bathroom and kitchen faucets, take off the aerators and clean them out, removing the little flecks of rust. Then the faucets work fine again. At least, they did until yesterday.

Old faucet

Old faucet

I’d been dealing with the progressively worse faucet in the bathroom for about a week and finally cleaned out the aerator. Unfortunately, either loosening or tightening it back on resulted in an sudden flood of water under the sink and onto the floor. It’s a pedestal sink, which in this one case was a good thing because it meant I noticed the problem right away instead of after it had soaked things, but it was still a mess. Of course this was right after we had gotten back from a big trip to Menards, where I easily could have bought a faucet and it was late and Sarah was taking the car the next day.

After removing the faucet, which was rather a pain because the hoses connect up underneath the sink where there isn’t any room to work, I took it apart and confirmed that it wasn’t possible to repair it. The faucet is very cheap. It may not actually be that old, but it’s basically designed to leak at least some water, and not designed for the aerator to be regularly cleaned out. We ordered a new faucet for pick up in store from Home Depot.

We decided that Sarah could drop me off at Home Depot on her way out and I could take the bus home. I’ve taken the bus to Home Depot on a couple of other occasions and the timing worked out really well. I was worried that on a Sunday I’d have to wait a while, but the bus was there right as I came out of the store and I hopped on. The next one would have been 18 minutes later.

New faucet

New faucet

We can’t fix the tile that won’t come clean, but we can put in a nice new faucet. It’s WaterSense, which means in uses less water but more importantly for our purposes puts out a decent stream despite our poor water pressure. The idea is that we’ll re-use this faucet for the basement bathroom, along with a shower kit we bought years ago that’s still in the box. That limited us to brushed nickel, which was good because we didn’t really plan on designing our other bathrooms just yet. I’m excited because it’s single handle, which I think is easier to use.

Unexpected Plumbing

Plumbing wall

Plumbing wall

After the demo party my mind was set on clearing out the rest of the lath. The dumpster was completely full, but we ordered a new one that was being delivered on Thursday. Wednesday evening I went down to start pulling up the subfloor in the kitchen and the floor in the foyer and I noticed a drip coming from the plumbing wall. It wasn’t too serious, so I propped a bucket under the pipe, supported by a board, and went about my work.

Wednesday night as we were falling asleep, we heard a crash from the first floor. The bucket had filled enough that it slipped and fell to the floor. Thursday the new dumpster arrived, but rather than getting to work filling it I  had to deal with the leak. It had gotten significantly worse and was splattering water all over. The leak was coming from somewhere up in the wall, in the second floor. I climbed up a ladder and shined a flashlight on the culprit: a pinhole leak.

Leaky pipe

Leaky pipe

The rusty spot was spraying water with aploumb, serious enough that it needed to be dealt with immediately. I turned off the water and determined that the pipe goes to no where. In the picture above you can see the yellowish pipe goes up and elbows into a tee. That is the supply pipe, coming from the basement. The top of the tee leads to all of the second floor fixtures. The bottom pipe, the one with the leak, goes down about eight feet and is capped. I believe it was the original supply pipe but it’s hard to say. The plumbing is old galvanized steel and has clearly seen some modifications over the years. For example, in the first floor wall there was a capped line going to about head height in the bathroom (and not to a shower head): it used to service a toilet with an elevated tank.

Because the pipe wasn’t connected to anything I decided it would be easiest to simply remove it and cap it, rather than try to patch the leak. In hindsight, I absolutely should have patched the leak. The same corrosion that had weakened the pipe to the point that water could simply push through the metal had made the threaded joint so impossibly strong that it would not come loose despite hours of prying on it with a pipe wrench. Part of the problem is that the tee that it connected to is up in the wall and I couldn’t get a second wrench on it.

I worked on it all evening, and once Derek was in bed Sarah came down and the two of us worked on it until about midnight when we finally gave up. With the water still shut off and the pipe partially disassembled, I took off work on Friday. Friday morning I was back at it. Since the water was already shut off I removed all of the first floor supply plumbing, something I’d been meaning to do for a while anyway. I took the bus over to Home Depot, since Sarah had the car, and picked up some supplies.

After liberally applying PB Blaster, heating the fitting with a propane torch, and using an 18″ pipe wrench with a four foot pipe as a breaker bar, the pipe still would not give. Finally, cursing pipe wrenches that slip and galvanized pipe that sucks beyond reason as a water pipe, I gave one more frustrated push and it gave way, or at least so I thought. I unscrewed the pipe and pulled it down from the ceiling only to discover that the pipe had not, in fact, come out of the tee, the tee itself had sheered off the elbow and come out with the pipe.

The accursed pipe, pinhole leak and still-attached sheered off elbow visible

The accursed pipe, pinhole leak and still-attached sheered off elbow visible

Now instead of simply capping the pipe I was going to have to put two ends of threaded pipe together. That meant I needed a union, which meant I needed to go back to the hardware store. Just then it started raining outside. Looking at the dangling supply pipe I realized that it wasn’t the cold water pipe I was dealing with but the hot, which meant I could turn off the valve at the hot water heater and turn the water back on, allowing the use of the toilet and sinks. In fact, I could have done that Thursday night and not been without water for twelve hours.

I trudged over to the hardware store, bought the union along with a 3/4″ to 1/2″ reducer and came back. In one more oddity of the plumbing of the house, the pipe from the hot water heater is 1/2″, but the tee it connected to was 3/4″. That meant my reducer was actually going to be an expander, something you really shouldn’t do with plumbing.

Replacement pipe

Assembled replacement pipe

I removed the upper segment of the hot water pipe and took off the broken elbow. Then I put together a new section using the expander and a section of salvaged pipe, along with a coupling. I put this on the end of the hot water pipe segment and reconnected it to the fitting up in the wall with a lot of teflon tape. Finally I put the union onto either end of the pipe and connected it together. It was finished, or so I thought.

I turned the hot water back on and immediately a drip started. After shutting it off I inspected and found that the drip was not from any of the fittings I had put together; it was from the tee I had connected to up in the wall. There was a leak on the side where a pipe connected it, probably torqued by the earlier wrenching much as the tee that had sheered off had been. Removing this section was not an option. There was no way to get to it without completely opening up the wall behind the kitchen sink on the second floor. Because the leak was small I found some plumbers epoxy and wrapped the whole fitting in it and waited twenty minutes for it to cure. When I turned on the water again there were no leaks.

Repaired and patched pipe

Repaired and patched pipe

You can see the fitting globbed with putty. I actually added some more after taking this picture. I want to point out that taking these photographs up in the wall using the flash and getting the focus right while I was on top of a ladder is incredibly challenging. I hope you appreciate the effort. In hindsight I should have patched the pinhole leak with the putty and been done with it, but I had forgotten that I had it (I bought it for the condo) and after discovering that the leaky pipe didn’t go anywhere I really thought it would be simplest to just remove it (obviously not).

After all of this, the inevitable crud that was broken loose inside the pipes spit brown chunks from the fixtures for a couple of minutes. Even after cleaning out the aerator on the kitchen sink faucet its pressure was abysmal, while the other fixtures worked fine. Because it was slow on cold and hot water I knew it was the mixing valve. Saturday I took the faucet apart and cleaned out the cartridge and got it back up to its normal mediocre performance. I look forward to replacing all of this garbage with copper. Unfortunately for the time being we’re stuck with it.