Year: 2015

Back Basement Window

The most complicated window installation was the one at the back of the house. The side and bay windows are fairly narrow and the top of the window is at the top of the basement, meaning there are no bricks above the window since the rest of the house is frame. The back window in the basement is over five feet wide but it’s short, with two courses of bricks above it. I was able to remove the existing window buck without the bricks above falling, but redoing the upper brick and installing a steel lintel seemed like the smart way to go. The existing window opening also didn’t have a sill, maybe because it used to be covered by the porch. I wanted to add a sill so that rain water would drip clear of the brick, preventing damage.

Removing the upper courses was a challenge because I didn’t want them to fall on me, so I wound up sitting on the new retaining wall and prying them loose (as seen in the video above). As expected they came down a dozen or two at a time, so it was a warranted precaution. I decided to go ahead and remove the second course as well, also captured on video. Once I removed everything and was down to good brick, I started with the lintel and upper bricks instead of the bottom so I could still put weight on the bottom as I worked. I bought and painted three six foot pieces of “angle iron” L-shaped steel. Our basement wall is three bricks thick (multi-wythe) so without getting a special piece of steel this was the easiest way to do it. I anchored the lintels in with brick and mortar on each side and then put in the middle course first, then the outside and finally the inside.

The next day I put together the sill, rebuilding the damaged courses and installing the limestone sill. I forgot to center the sill under the window, so it’s not perfectly symmetrical by a couple inches, but I can live with it. Then I rebuilt the sides where the center wythe of brick had erroded. Unfortunately I still wound up having to grind the sides to get it flat enough to fit the bucks. Since I bought my windows months ago with little to no clearance, I needed the rough openings to be big enough, which meant the sides had to be perfectly flat. On the side windows I did a lot of trial and error with test fitting the buck, but by this point I’d realized I could use my laser level to cast a vertical exactly where I wanted it, then grind away the red line.

Once the sides were smooth I installed the bucks the same way I did the side windows: pressure treated boards (though I increased to 2x10s in this case) with sill gasket installed using Tapcon screws. With the buck in place I slid the window into place, shimmed it on either side, and screwed it in with vinyl window screws. 

Window Installed


In the photo I took there were some shims underneath, but those were removed. On a horizontal slider you want it to rest on the sill. The final steps are sealing: backer rod, caulk, and spray foam. Once the pressure treated wood has properly dried (next summer) I’ll come back and paint the bucks. I plan to eventually clad the bucks on the outside with PVC trim boards, which will further protect the wood and make it look nice.

Back Basement Steps Drain

Mario, our concrete mason, is planning to form and pour the steps and landing outside the back basement door soon. One important feature of the landing is a drain for rain and snow. I’m a bit paranoid about flooding in the basement. I’ve known too many people get water in their basement and cause thousands of dollars of damage to half-ass the drainage when we have the opportunity to do it the right way now. The good news is that even without any weeping system, the old basement never flooded, despite some heavy rainfall. The bad news is that was before we dug it down by a foot, and we’ve definitely had water at that level, though mostly due to bad gutters. I have extensive plans for storm water management with our house, but most of them haven’t been implemented yet.

Catch basin drain

Catch basin drain

Two of the people I know that have had flooded basements live in houses very similar to ours, with a basement door to the outside and steps up to grade. In both cases, water coming in from the back door was a major cause of the flooding, so I want to be extra careful with ours. First, the landing outside the back door is going to be a couple inches lower than the basement floor. Second, I’m using a 6″ catch basin style drain that ties directly to our interior weeping system. The advantage of this style drain is that any debris that gets past the grate settles to the bottom of the drain rather than going down the pipe and causing clogs or problems with the sump pump. Using a 6″ drain means that it will be more difficult for leaves and other debris to clog the grate. Third, rather than center the drain in the landing I put it towards the retaining wall, so that when Mario pours the landing it will slope away from the house. Doing that math on square footage of the stairs and landing, this system will easily handle the 3″ per hour 100-year storm water rate for Chicago as long as the drain doesn’t get completely clogged, and this drain should resist clogging.

Area drain installed

Area drain installed (looking out from basement)

The installation itself was pretty straightforward. We dug out the landing a bit and took out the old concrete threshold at the footing level of the basement door so we could run a trench to the weeping system. A bit of pipe, some stone, and the drain itself went in with a bit of test fitting and trench re-grading.

Ready for stairs and landing

Ready for stairs and landing

Mario came out and put in more stone to prep the area for the steps and the landing. We got some snow over the weekend and a holiday coming up, but hopefully we can get them formed and poured soon.

Basement Retaining Wall and Footing Curb

We’re still waiting on our plumbers to do the re-lining of the sewer and the new water supply line. They in turn are waiting on approval from the City, which is being difficult. Apparently the connection between our sewer line and the sewer main under the street is damaged, and City is determining whether we need to repair it to do the re-lining.

Interior footing curb forming

Interior footing curb forming

In the mean time Mario, our concrete guy, is going like gangbusters to move things along. We can’t pour the basement floor until the plumbers finish their work, but we can work on the back stairs. After I removed the back steps down from the first floor, he re-dug out the hole we had filled behind the house and knocked out the existing retaining walls. For a rare change, rapid progress was being made without me being directly involved.

Nighttime concrete

Nighttime concrete

Within a couple days, Mario got the forms in for the new retaining wall as well as for a curb around the inside perimeter of the basement, since the existing stone block footings were exposed from the digout. Then, unexpectedly, Tuesday afternoon the concrete truck arrived a day ahead of schedule and Mario and his assistant wound up working until 10pm to get everything poured, smoothed, and cleaned up. Anything ahead of schedule is rare indeed with our project!

Retaining wall, formed, braced, and poured

Retaining wall, formed, braced, and poured

The forms came off the retaining wall yesterday and soon the stairs can be formed. I need to get the drain for the landing outside the back door roughed in and then Mario can get that and the stairs poured.

Completed retaining wall

Completed retaining wall

The forms are still on the footing curb, but you can definitely get a feel for the difference it makes in the basement. It’s really starting to feel like we can get a floor poured and start putting up walls, if the city would just sign off and let the plumbers get to it.

Side Basement Windows

Old basement window

Old basement window

About a month ago I decided it was time to finally put in the side windows in the basement. The first step was to remove the existing windows and the “bucks” or the wooden frames that are attached to the brick basement wall. Unfortunately on the first window I found that the brick around the window was crumbling or straight up missing, and the stone sill was disintegrating. Realizing that I now needed to get the masonry repaired before I could install the window, I checked the others and discovered they were in similar condition, plus the back doorway needed some work as well.

We had the inside of the basement tuckpointed back in January, so I called up the masons and left a message. When I didn’t hear back I sent them an email. Finally I got a call back and set up a time to meet, but they never showed up for the appointment,or called. I contacted another mason but there were some communication difficulties and I went back to looking. I contacted two other masons, both of which came out to look, said they were interested and could do the work in a few weeks, and said they’d get me quotes in a few days. I never got quotes from either one, and with the declining temperatures (masonry should be done above 40°) I didn’t want to wait any longer. I decided just to do it myself.

I took some time off work, picked up new limestone sills, tools, and a bag of mortar, and we already have a giant pile of bricks from taking down the chimney, and set to work. I knocked out the existing sills and took the brick down to a layer that was in good shape, scraping all the old mortar off. I was able to build the new sills up to a slightly higher level to prevent water from coming in off the sidewalk while still leaving enough room for the windows. The brick work was slow. I’m not very experienced, I had to run out in the middle to get another 80lb bag of mortar with my motorcycle, and there was a lot of time spent chiseling bricks into shape to fit. I also used the plastic bag method to squeeze mortar into some of the crevices in the sides of the walls, which worked surprisingly well. I also had to spend a fair amount of time grinding down existing bricks and mortar to get the openings the rights size, especially the back door, as well as one of the windows that had been previously repaired with concrete. The end result wasn’t beautiful, but it’s solid and it’s all getting covered up by the new bucks anyway.

I let the mortar set up for a few days before I started on the windows themselves. I framed new pressure treated bucks and put them in with sill gasket and Tapcon screws. Sarah helped me fit the windows and shim them, then I went around and put in backer rod, caulk, and spray foam in all the crevices. I plan to install PVC trim on the exterior at some later date, but we need to figure out what we’re doing about the parging that covers the outside walls, if anything. The side windows are all fixed picture windows so they don’t open, but they let in a lot of light, especially in the case of the back side window that’s been boarded up since we bought the house.

I still have to tackle the back window, but it’s a bit more complicated because it has courses of bricks above it, unlike the other windows that go up to the underside of the first floor framing. That means I need to put in a steel lintel (three actually, since it’s a three-wythe wall). I plan to tackle that this coming weekend.

Interior Weeping System

Starting the trench

Starting the trench

After we got the basement dug out, we were planning to have the weeping system put in by our plumbers, but the plumbing quotes were all so high that we had decided to do the weeping system ourselves to save money. I started with some Internet research, followed by a perusal of Chicago Building Code. I also watched an episode of Mike Holmes putting in an interior weeper. Finally, I spoke to the plumbers to see how they typically do it.

Slow progress

Slow progress

I recalled my architect telling me that the weeping trench had to be twice as far from the footing as it was deep to prevent undermining the footing (since we’d dug to the bottom of the footing). Since we’re using 4″ drain tile pipe, the minimum trench size is 6″, so it’s set 1′ in from the footings. The plumbers said they typically dig the trench a foot wide, but I was at a shortage of places to dump the dirt and I didn’t want to dig more than I had to. Plus, I didn’t see much of an advantage to making the trench wider. I initially started digging the trench an even 6″ deep, but I realized that the pipe needed to slope toward the sump crock by ⅛” per feet, also known as 1″ per 8′. I started with the depth of the sump crock openings and worked backward. The result put the top of the pipe proud of the trench in places, but still within the stone that goes under the concrete and foam insulation.

I bought a big 36″ deep by 24″ wide sump crock, rigid PVC drain tile pipe, a bunch of assorted fittings, and a pipe filter sock. The plumber suggested I account for the front bay window with some 45° fittings, but because of how sharp our bay is compared to most, I wound up using street 45s plus 22.5s for “67.5” degree turns. In my previous post on the mechanical room layout, I alluded to the challenges of figuring out where the sump basin would fit without interfering with pipes for the ejector pit, the sewer line, the pex tubing that will eventually come out of the floor by the radiant system, and without the outlet pipes being in the way of the boiler. I settled on an area along the wall that’s in front of the radiant panel, but not where the pex will come out of the floor.

Finished install

Finished install

One of the advantages of rigid PVC drain tile over the corrugated stuff is you can snake it if it ever gets clogged, so I added a clean-out at the far end of the run, as well as a connection for the drain in the back steps landing. The hardest part was digging the trench and sump pit and hauling out the dirt. Once I had started putting the pieces into place, assembly went quickly. The last step in the process is our sump pump, but I still have to plug it in, so I’ll cover that in another post.